Introduction
In climbing publications, the descriptions refer to various grading systems that have different origins, ranges, and accuracy.
Some of these systems are more popular in one kind of climbing, others are common in a specific climbing crag or even country, while others are chosen by climbers who open or grade routes based on their experience. This practice necessitates the existence of tables with correspondences of grading systems.
The table cited here contains the official correspondences of the grading systems as published by the UIAA in 2008. For more details you can also read the following sources:
Average difficulty
| Difficulty | UIAA grading |
|---|
| AD | III |
| D | IV |
| TD | V |
| ED | VI |
Winter routes
Severity
| Severity | Description |
|---|
| I | Easy ascents below 45° |
| II | Difficulties with easy protection |
| III | Big elevation, caution when returning, continuous difficulty, hard protection, no danger though |
| IV | Big elevation, caution when returning, isolated area, danger |
| V | Same as above, plus bivouac on the mountain crag |
Snow - Ice
| Slope | Description |
|---|
| 1 | Up to 45° |
| 2 | From 45° to 60° |
| 3 | From 60° to 80° |
| 4 | From 80° to 90° |
| 5 | Beyond 90° |
Mixed
| Mixed | Description |
|---|
| M1 | Up to II (UIAA) |
| M2 | Up to IV (UIAA) |
| M3 | Up to V (UIAA) |
| M4 | Up to VI (UIAA) |
| M5 | Up to VII (UIAA) |
Ice quality
| Quality | Description |
|---|
| R | Thin ice |
| X | Fragile ice with danger of collapse |
